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Reviewed by: Ken O'Reilly [03.30.01]
Manufactured by: MSI


More Good Stuff

This board is as "jumper less" as you are going to get. There are only two jumpers on this board, one is to clear your CMOS, and it is nicely located near the side of the board, the other is to choose either English or Chinese language for the Smart Led voice. I hope that this doesn't leave you feeling like you are not going to be able to "Over Clock" this motherboard. If that is what you are thinking you are wrong, oh so very wrong.

The BIOS now has a nice soft menu that allows you to change your Vcore, multiplier, Vio, and your FSB.

If you are going to attempt to Overclock with this motherboard I would recommend getting the "Overclocking/Poweruser" BIOS which can be found on MSI web page. This version of the BIOS gives you a wider range of Vcore, Vio and multiplier settings. It also provides you with 4 way interleave for your memory which gives you an increase in your memory performance.

The K7T-Pro2-A is as stable as other MSI Pro series of boards and it is oh so very "cherry" Over clocking friendly. This board was my first attempt at serious over clocking and I had great success!

I mentioned ATA/100 and here's a nice screenie just to show you what it means to you and your hard drive.  If you bought an ATA/100 drive in the past couple months, but have been using it on a board not making use of it, this is what you're missing out on:

You feel the need... The need for speed, look no further than the Pro2-A :)

If you are afraid to unlock your Duron because the "pencil trick" is to risky then try out the Fuzzy Logic 3 program. This program allows you to manually change your FSB with out having to go into the BIOS. It's not the "real" way to Over Clock but it is safe and does give you some increase in performance. It also has a feature that will automatically find your safest and most stable setting and although it locks up your computer when getting the settings, the next time you restart your computer just click the turbo button and your all set.

I won't go into great detail about the Diagnostic LED's but the functionality of them is as follows.

The 4 LEDs will either be light in one of two colours, red (meaning 0) and green (meaning 1). If they are all green then all systems go, however if they are not then there is a problem with your set-up. I will give you two examples that I ran into.

#1. This one I saw a lot when I pushed my computer to far when Over Clocking.

Red Green Red Red

If you look this up in the table located in the manual 0100 it states that my memory is either installed incorrectly or the memory is damaged. What I interpreted that as I pushed the FSB to high and my OEM memory was very unhappy.

#2.This one I only saw once and I hope you never do.

Red Red Red Red =0000

I didn't need to look this up but if you did you would see that the LEDs were saying that either my CPU was installed incorrectly or it was damaged. Well it was fried... the HSF clip broke off and it overheated. That is another story.  Don't you just love Socket-A coolers.

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