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Reviewed By: Carl Nelson [11.05.01]
Manufactured by: ThermalTake
Suggested Price: $??



Many people had problems with the twist-on clip used by the original Golden Orb for Pentium CPU's... Personally, I found it to be a heck of a lot easier than pretty much every other heatsink I had ever used in my entire life, but some people did...

The later Orb series coolers, such as the Chrome Orb and Super Orb use a variation on the old standby clip-on technique.  I would have preferred another twist on, but that wasn't going to happen after the cracked Athlon nightmares, and the Little Rubber Feet (tm) getting in the way on AMD's Socket A CPU's...

Thermaltake took the clip one step closer to perfection with a handy screwdriver fitted clip.  Basically, rather than have a cheap ass clip gouge into your thumb before breaking off *cough*Globalwin*cough*, you can simply insert a flat-head screwdriver, and use that to put downward force on the clip.  This was the best clip I have ever seen, besides the Golden Orb twist-on method! Great work!

I will always be a fan of the screwdriver clip... No Socket-A/Socket-370 coolers I have seen beats it...

Still, I have seen people complaining about this clip as well.  I guess you just can't please everyone...

Size-wise, the Volcano 7 is what I believe to be Thermaltake's biggest HSF... It's just small enough to be used on Socket A and Socket 370 (I've used it on both).  Motherboard manufacturers are starting to smarten up, and are moving the capacitors away from the CPU socket.  As CPU's got hotter, and heatsinks got bigger, this was bound to happen, I guess.  Still, you should check your board to make sure you have proper clearance for this monster heatsink - You're probably not ready for an 80mm HSF (poor you).

Just Enough

Thermaltake's earlier copper products had a TON of copper! If they had continued that way with this massive heatsink, surely it would have been too heavy.  This time, Thermaltake used a thinner copper slug, though it DOES go all the way through the bottom of the heatsink.

One bad thing about using pure copper on the bottom of heatsinks is that it is a very soft metal... As you can see, the bottom of my V7 is somewhat scarred, though this is after about 12 installations or so... Before I got it, it was quite smooth - not as smooth as glass, but smooth enough for my standards.  You could always lap it down to a mirror finish...

Other Notes

  • The power cable is actually comprised of two 3-pin connectors; one that you attach to a motherboard heading if you're curious about the fan speed (this is optional) and one you attach to either another fan header on your board, or if you want your board to live, attach it directly to a 4 pin connector using the adapter included in the box.  I would have appreciated just a 4-pin connector for the power, just to keep from adding another wire to my case...

  • Since Tt sells products to everyone, from hardcore coolers, to n00bs to probably a few stupid people, the V7 comes with some 'thermal interface material' pre-applied.  As always, we suggest that you remove this crap right away, and use some REAL paste, such as our favourite here at HCW, Arctic Silver.

  • I have no idea how much it is going to cost! Nobody has these yet... As soon as I know, I will update this review.  (if there are any vendors who would like to work with us to let the readers know about prices, please contact me!)

Now that you know everything about the V7, let's get to the nitty gritty - The test results are in!

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